Introduced to us by our mutual friends at Lady White Co. via their collaboration Split Seam Shoes, I began speaking to Shogo Kurokawa from the brand Phigvel late last year. The care and craftsmanship made me really interested to learn more about the brand.
Phigvel is a Japanese fashion label founded in 2002 by designer Hideki Tohno. The brand is known for producing high-quality, vintage-inspired garments that blend American military, work, and sportswear, with a focus on "new classic" design. I sat down with Shogo to find out more about the brand and his role within it.
GA - Can you please explain how Phigvel came to be and what the brand is about?
SK - Our designer started PHIGVEL when he was 25 years old. That was in 2002, 24 years ago. He originally worked at HECTIC, a very popular Tokyo street brand at the time, where he learned clothing production. It was a brand focused on street culture, like skateboarding and HIP HOP. It was incredibly cool, and one of the brands I admired back then.
However, he wanted to create not just street culture clothing, but also the vintage wear and American casual styles he had always loved. So he went independent and started PHIGVEL. Here is the brand concept: With “NEW CLASSIC” as its concept, PHIGVEL reinterprets timeless products like workwear, military, and outdoor gear to create high-quality daily wear. Paying homage to the vintage clothing and shoes from various genres that originally existed, PHIGVEL reconstructs them through its own filter, creating modern and comfortable products. We focus on both Seasonal Products and Permanent Clothes, aiming for high-quality craftsmanship that emphasises the core elements of clothing: materials, patterns, and sewing.
GA - What role do you play within the team?
SK -As General Manager, I oversee brand management. I also collaborate with designers on merchandise planning, product development, and production. Communication with wholesale partners and planning and executing overseas distribution channels are also key responsibilities. Since we're a small company of just six people, each of us handles a variety of tasks.
GA - Who or what inspires Phigvel?
SK - PHIGVEL does not draw inspiration from any specific person. Military and workwear designs reference vintage pieces and historical materials. The designer is passionate about fly fishing, so inspiration comes from fishing apparel and gear of the era, as well as related fields like vintage hunting, sports, and climbing—spanning various scenes, genres, and eras. What matters most is not simply recreating these elements, but expressing them in a way that is uniquely PHIGVEL.
GA - What is a key piece you think everyone should have in their wardrobe?
SK - We're a clothing brand, but we make beautiful shoes too. It's rare for a clothing brand to create such original footwear. I think you know because you're wearing your LWC collaboration shoes. We currently offer five styles of shoes in our Permanent Collection.
We really want your customers to try them.
GA - I love the shoes, never have them off. Your shoes are definitely something we will introduce in coming seasons
GA - What is your favourite piece from our original order we have made and why?
I love denim fabric, so I'd go with the PM-301 and 302. It's 12-ounce original selvedge Kibata denim. It's soft and incredibly comfortable to wear. Because it's Kibata denim, you get the fabric's natural fuzziness and texture, letting you enjoy the authentic feel of denim. Nowadays, it takes about a year to produce this denim fabric. We also regularly review the silhouette and parts, striving to make the best possible product at that time.
GA - What are you listening to?
SK - I often listen to an artist named Eiko Ishibashi. While piano is her foundation, she creates wonderful music through improvisation and experimental collaborations with jazz, electronic, and other genre artists.
GA - What are you watching?
SK - I love movies, but I always end up watching the same ones I like. Lately, though, <The Eight Mountains> was my favourite! It wasn't a movie where anything big happened, but the visuals, scenery, and music were totally my style. I also collect photo books by Italian photographer Luigi Ghirri. Last year, there was an exhibition of his photos in Tokyo, and I really fell in love with them.
GA - What are you reading?
SK - I also read the original novel that inspired that movie, and it was really good.
Lately, I've been reading the expedition journals of a Japanese explorer named Yusuke Kakuhata. His true account of spending the polar night in Greenland is incredibly exciting. Maybe it's the feeling of mountains and exploration. It might also connect to PHIGVEL's clothing and atmosphere.
GA - Thanks so much for your time, I am really looking forward to working together and our customers getting the opportunity to test out your amazing products.
